By Santi, Head Van Engineer, December 28, 2025
Why choose a 2015-2019 Mercedes Sprinter?
The 2015-2019 Sprinter is a proven platform for adventure vans: roomy cargo volume, diesel range, and a huge aftermarket for conversions and service parts (including the 2019 Mercedes Sprinter). If you're planning a van for off-grid life or a professionally finished camper, these model years strike a good balance of modern electronics and workhorse mechanicals. In our time, they perform very well when maintained, but there are a handful of recurring fault areas buyers should inspect closely before committing.
Strengths of the platform (cargo capacity, diesel efficiency, aftermarket support)
Sprinters offer top cargo space for their size (Mercedes-Benz), great diesel fuel economy for highway travel, and wide access to parts and experts. For couples or groups wanting a strong, cozy camper, high-roof Sprinters are the most common choice. Most buyers choose high roof for headroom and comfort, and many mid-roof owners later add pop-tops.
What changed between 2015 and 2019 (facelifts, engine/software/emissions updates)
Between 2015 and 2019, Mercedes changed emissions plumbing and electronics, gradually adding DEF/DPF hardware, new engine control software, and extra safety/electronics packages. Those changes improved emissions compliance but also added parts that can fail on higher-mileage vans, so check emissions-service history and software-related repairs in the service records.
Year-by-year known issues (quick reference)
2015 - early OM651/OM642 emissions plumbing, injector and EGR quirks
Early post-2015 Sprinters can show injector wear and EGR-cooler issues. Check for coolant/oil mixing signs and recorded EGR or injector work.
2016 - increased DEF/DPF complaints after emissions updates
Owners noted DEF pump problems and DPF regen troubles after the 2016 emissions changes; look for DEF crystals and signs of frequent forced regen events.
2017 - electrical gremlins tied to body control modules and instrument clusters
2017 models began to show occasional BCM or instrument-cluster issues. Check that dashboard systems work through startup cycles and while driving.
2018 - transmission software/shift issues on 7G-Tronic variants; turbocharger oil seal leaks reported
Test-drive for smooth shifting and check service records for transmission software changes. Inspect the turbo for oil leaks and listen for whistle or rough spool sounds.
2019 - updated safety/electronics suites; watch for wiring harness chafing and updated emissions components
2019 gained newer systems and wiring runs that can chafe, mainly where aftermarket changes routed extra circuits. Pay close attention to wiring paths near doors, tail lights, and HVAC ducts when checking converted vans.
Rust and corrosion — where to look
Rust is one of the most important dealmakers or dealbreakers on a used Sprinter. Surface rust on body panels can be repaired, but structural or frame rust at mounts and crossmembers usually means expensive repair or replacement. If you spot frame rust, have it evaluated by a specialist before you buy.
Frame rails and mounting points (rear subframe, step/ramp mounts)
Inspect rear subframe mounts, step and ramp mounts, and suspension mounting points for deep pitting or holes. Use a pry or poke test in hidden areas; if metal flakes off, the rust is severe.
Sliding door lower rails, rocker panels, wheel arches, rear step, roof ladder/rack interfaces
These are common trouble spots on modified vans. Look for patch repairs, filler, or unmatched paint which can hide past rust work. Check behind trim and under running boards where moisture collects.
Inspection techniques and pry/poke tests; what degree of corrosion is repairable
Minor surface rust and small holes on panels are usually fixable. Damage at frame rails, crossmembers, or where mounts go through the frame is often a deal-breaker unless you plan for major structural repair.
Emissions systems: DPF, DEF (AdBlue), EGR, and sensors
Symptoms of failing DPF/DPF regen issues and causes
Frequent forced regens, too much soot puffing from the tailpipe, repeated fault codes, or less power show DPF problems. Ask for proof of expert DPF cleanings or swaps and note whether long highway drives were part of the van’s service pattern. Vans used mostly in slow city driving tend to have DPF issues sooner.
DEF system problems (crystallization, pump failures, heater issues)
Look for hard crystals near the DEF fill area and test DEF system function while the engine runs cold and warm. DEF pumps and heaters fail at higher miles and repair costs vary based on part and labor.
Common EGR cooler leaks and associated coolant/oil mixing symptoms
Signs include milky oil, low coolant level without outside leak, or white smoke on startup. These repairs can be average to costly; check any EGR or coolant hose work in records.
When emissions faults lead to limp mode - cost and fix options
Limp mode is often caused by ongoing DPF or DEF faults or sensor problems. Fixes range from sensor swap to DPF cleaning or EGR/service plumbing repairs; get quotes and past repair bills where you can.
Electronics and wiring: common failure points
Body control modules, instrument cluster faults, and intermittent ECU faults
Cycle all inside switches and watch for dashboard errors. Occasional faults are the hardest to diagnose; ask for a cold and warm start test and a road test long enough to repeat electrical symptoms.
Wiring harness chafe (especially near doors, tail lights, and HVAC ducts)
Aftermarket changes often route extra wires that rub on factory wiring. Look under panels and where camper wiring enters the cabin. Frayed wires can cause charging and BCM problems.
Aftermarket camper electrics that cause alternator/charging issues
Confirm how the house power system was connected. Poorly separated house loads, wrong alternator tap points, or missing isolation diodes can overload charging systems and cause alternator wear.
Powertrain, transmission, and drivetrain checks
Diesel engine health checks (smoke, compression, oil dilution, turbo play)
Look for too much smoke on acceleration, test for turbo shaft play, and check oil quality for fuel mixing. A compression test and a fuel-system check by a diesel expert are high-value tests on higher-mileage units.
Transmission behavior (shift quality, slipping, torque converter shudder) and fluid/service history
Test the transmission through full gears and up/down shifts, including highway passing moves. Confirm recorded transmission service and any software updates for the 7G-Tronic where needed.
Rear axle/differential and CV/Joints inspection
Check for leaks, play in CV joints, and listen for clunks under load. Rear axle service records and differential oil quality matter on hard-use vans or RV builds.
Suspension, brakes, and steering
Leaf spring/coil condition, bushings, and shock absorber wear
Inspect for sagging springs, torn bushings, and oil-covered shocks. Heavy builds often speed up suspension wear; check for improvements or recent swaps.
Electronic stability/ABS sensor problems and their effects
ABS or traction faults can arise from sensor wiring damage; test ABS function and look for stored codes during an OBD-II scan.
Recommended road test maneuvers
Perform highway speed-ups, steady 60-70 mph cruise, low-speed handling, hill climbs, and full-brake stops to find powertrain, transmission, brake fade, or steering wander.
Used Sprinter RV-specific inspection points
Roof integrity, seams, and vent/insert flashing (leaks are common)
Roof leaks are the most common RV build problem. Inspect roof seams, vent flashings, skylights, and any RV-grade inserts for soft spots, water stains, or active leaks. Check inside ceiling and cabinets for past water damage and odors.
House electrical system: inverter, shore/generator integration, shore charger, and battery state
Confirm how the house system was tied in: look for correctly fused feeds, a separate shore inlet, and safe inverter setups. Test both shore power and inverter output under load. Batteries should hold charge and be securely fastened with ventilation where needed.
Propane system, gas appliances, and LP leak checks
Have a skilled tech pressure-test the propane system and check appliance venting and shutoffs. LP leaks are risky and should be seen as a major red flag unless fixed by a pro with proof.
Plumbing, freshwater/gray/black tanks, and pump operation
Run the water system: build pressure, cycle pump, check for odors, leaks, and proper tank venting. Inspect black-tank plumbing for signs of skipped or poorly set fittings that lead to chronic odors.
Slide-outs, awnings, and custom conversions: failure modes and repair difficulty
Manual slide-outs and awnings fail on worn motors and tracks; run them fully and inspect seals. Custom frame changes to the van should be checked by an expert to ensure mounting strength and no hidden rust.
Pre-purchase diagnostic checklist (walk-around and test procedures)
Paperwork: service records, VIN/recall check, title history, and emissions paperwork
Ask for full service records, recent emissions services, and any recall work done. Confirm the VIN record for salvage or flood titles and request receipts for major repairs.
Quick visual checklist (photos to capture)
Take pictures of frame rails, underside, engine bay, DEF fill area, roof seams, conversion openings, and both sides of the van door sills. These images are useful for later checking by an expert.
On-road checklist and what to ask the seller during the test drive
During the test drive ask about idle habits, whether the van has done long highway miles lately, DPF cleaning rate, and any repeated warning lights. Insist on at least a 20-30 minute road test on a varied route.
Recommended OBD checks and sample fault codes to watch for
Scan for past codes linked to DPF (soot load), DEF heater/pump circuits, EGR faults, dash/BCM errors, and transmission or ABS codes. If the seller won't allow a scan, treat it as a warning sign.
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Red flags and repair cost expectations
When to walk away (structural rust, salvage history, catastrophic engine/transmission damage)
Walk away from frame rust, hidden salvage or flood titles, or signs of major engine or transmission failure that lacks clear repair records. Fixing frame or drivetrain disasters often costs more than the vehicle's worth.
Typical repair cost ranges for common failures (DPF/DEF, turbo, transmission, body rust)
Expect DEF pump or sensor repairs often in the $300-$1,200 range; DPF cleaning or swap can run $800-$6,000 based on cleaning vs. swap and labor; turbo seal repairs and injector work vary but budget a few hundred to a few thousand dollars for solid work. Frame rust repairs are highly variable; major frame work can go over several thousand dollars.
Budgeting for hidden problems in RV conversions
Builds can hide poor wiring, plumbing shortcuts, or ignored roof leaks. Budget extra of at least a few thousand dollars for repairs after buying older builds, mainly for electrical separation and roof sealing work.
After-purchase tips and preventive maintenance
Initial service priorities once you buy (fluids, filters, cooling system, DEF flush)
On purchase, perform a full fluid and filter service, coolant system pressure test, inspect the DEF system and flush if needed, and check transmission fluid quality and service times. Replace timing and drive-belt parts per mileage if not recorded.
Upgrades to reduce future headaches (heat tracing for DEF, harness protection, rust sealing)
Think about adding DEF heat tracing where weather needs it, protective conduit and secure routing for camper wiring, and underbody rust sealing or frame coatings to slow future rust. Guarding the DEF fill area against crystals and securely separating house loads from chassis electrical systems prevents a lot of future trouble.
Finding the right Diesel/European specialist and what to ask
Look for shops with Sprinter experience and diesel testing gear. Ask whether they perform DPF tests, injector testing, turbo checks, and whether they can verify BCM and transmission software levels. A trusted expert is worth the cost; ask for references and recent Sprinter work examples.
Quick printable buyer’s checklist (compact one-page summary)
- Verify VIN/title history and recall work
- Scan OBD-II and save codes (DPF, DEF, EGR, transmission, BCM)
- Inspect frame rails, rear subframe mounts, and rocker panels
- Operate roof vents, awnings, and slide-outs; inspect for leaks
- Run inverter/shore power and test battery state under load
- Test-drive for shifting, turbo behavior, and ABS/stability
- Request recent service receipts for DPF/DEF, injectors, and transmission
- Have a diesel specialist perform compression and coolant-pressure checks if uncertain
FAQ
What are the most common problems on a 2019 Mercedes Sprinter?
Electrical/wiring faults (dash clusters, BCM), DEF/DPF emissions issues, occasional turbo oil-seal leaks, and wiring harness chafe, mainly on modified vans.
How much should I expect to pay to fix DPF or DEF issues on a used Sprinter?
Costs vary: DEF pump or sensor repairs often run $300-$1,200; full DPF cleaning or swap can range $800-$6,000 based on cleaning vs. swap and labor rates.
Is a 2015 Mercedes Benz Sprinter a good buy in 2025?
It can be if well-kept with service records and low rust; be extra careful on emissions history, injector/EGR service, and frame rust. Have a diesel expert inspect before purchase.
What should I look for when buying a used Sprinter RV?
Roof and seam leaks, proper separation between house and chassis electrical systems, propane tightness, fresh/gray/black tank state, and signs of expert build work or welds that show frame changes.
How can I tell if a Sprinter has been properly maintained?
Complete service records showing timely oil/filter changes, DPF/DEF upkeep, transmission service, and recorded repairs; steady ownership and receipts for major work are good signs.
Are electrical problems common on Sprinters from 2015-2019?
Yes. Occasional BCM/dash cluster faults and wiring harness issues are noted, mainly where aftermarket builds change or extend factory wiring.
How serious is rust on a Sprinter van - repairable or dealbreaker?
Surface rust on body panels is fixable; frame rust at mounts, crossmembers, or subframe is often a dealbreaker or costly to fix. Have a frame expert check how bad it is.
Do I need specialized tools to check a used Sprinter before buying?
Basic checks need only a code reader (OBD-II) and visual check. For engine/transmission trust, a diesel compression gauge, coolant pressure tester, and a smoke tester for leaks are advised or have a shop run them.
Need help checking a certain vehicle? Book a pre-buy check with The Vansmith or request our printable checklist PDF at the link below.
